http://eriks.co.uk/
(I wasn't able to find a listing for the belts themselves but they were able to get a hold of the belts I needed when I emailed.)
Please note: To fit the belts I've had to cut into the casing, but it is possible to avoid this.
What to ask for:
Poly V 230 J 3 (for the right hand belt, if your looking at the bike face-on)
Poly V 240 J 3 (for the left hand belt, if your looking at the bike face-on)
Assembly & user manual:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5pBrePbUv4fZzBoWUFYYWQ5TUE/view?usp=sharing&resourcekey=0-kx5kkhQT4uVCiec8o2giqw
A story
I decided to buy an exercise bike after an appalling experience at a gym, wanting to slim down for my yearly snow sports holiday. I purchased a Davina McCall Magnetic Bike, mostly because it was cheap, fold-able, and had really good reviews on the site I purchased it from. It's been well worth it.
However, I started to notice a 'klunking' in the pedalling. To me, it felt like I was cycling normally and then the pedals would spin faster for a moment, pedal normally again and then spin faster again, but it wasn't at every rotation of the pedals. I ignored it for a while but it became worse and worse and I recently decided to try and open up the bike to see if I could find out what the cause was.
The bike was cheap, but if I could repair it that'd be much cheaper than replacing it, especially as no other bike caught my attention in my latest search, missing the handy fold-able feature that the Davina Bike had.
Taking it apart was relatively easy, wherever there was a screw, I unscrewed, until I was able to wriggle the blue face-plate out.
There are two belts inside the bike. If you face the bike, so the handles are closest to you and the seat further away, the belt connecting two wheels on the left appears to be for the little computer to detect your progress. The belt connecting two wheels on the right appears to link to the magnetic resistance.
The left of these belts was clearly frayed but I couldn't tell if that was the problem. I slowly pedalled with my hands, watching the belt to see what happened to it when the pedals slipped and span fast again. At first I couldn't tell what was happening but, unable to see anything else that looked like it might be a problem, I continued pedalling and watching.
I eventually called in my fiancé and, while we don't agree on what the problem is, we do agree that replacing this belt was probably the way to go.
The right-hand belt was undamaged, so we could ready that it was a "ACRON S-Teknic 230 J" belt. Unfortunately a search online wasn't very helpful and the manual for the bike only listed the part very usefully as "57 Belt".
While we couldn't find a "ACRON S-Teknic 230 J" belt online I was able to start piecing information together about what this part actually was. "ACRON" was the manufacture, which was good to know because it meant if I could work out what the part was I could look for makes from other manufactures. I don't know what "S-Teknic" is, probably just some branding but the 230 J is interesting, you need to know a few other things too:
These belts are knowing as "Poly V" belts.
Poly: Just means many, Greek in origin I think.
V: This describes the shape of the belt, if you look at the underside you'll see this sort of shape vvv, the V is the shape, the poly bit just indicates that there's more than one. (Two vv s is still a Poly V belt, not a Poly W belt).
230: The first two digits is the length in full inches of the belt. The number always has a zero on the end for some reason, I think it's an indicator of how much of a full inch extra there is but I haven't seen any belt listings with any number other than zero online. (The left hand belt actually snapped while we were testing the problem so, while we could read 230 on the non-damaged belt, we were able to measure properly the one that needed replacing anyway - 240).
J: This is an indicator of the dimensions of each v, height, length and width, you can look up the specifics if you want but you don't need to, just know that it's a J.
3: I mentioned that the underside of the belt looks like three v s next to each other, this is what the 3 stands for, the number of vs.
Phew! So, I finally knew what I was after and my fiancé and I did a small tour of local washing machine, vacuum, lawn mower and motor parts suppliers to see if they had any. No luck, and finding somewhere that clearly sold Poly V 240 J 3 belts online wasn't easy either as at that time I was still piecing together information about what I needed.
There were a lot of sites that only catered for mass industrial orders and the site I actually approached informed me they wouldn't deliver to the UK. (If anyone's interested the original site was http://www.motionindustries.com).
When I contacted this company though, they gave me an email contact for the website at the top of this post. Their own website doesn't list the parts, but a friendly and helpful man responded to my online enquiry and after a quick phone call, arranged the order of a replacement Poly V 240 J 3 belt. There was a minimum order value though, so I also ordered the other belt, Poly V 230 J 3, and a Poly V 250 J 3. Just in case I'd measured wrong.
They're due for delivery this week and I'm looking forward to getting the bike fixed up and running again for 1/10th of the price it would have been to replace.
As a quick internet search wasn't all I needed, I thought I'd post about my exercise bike fixing adventure in case anyone else found it useful and save them the long weekend it took me to figure all this out - not that long really. :P
I decided to buy an exercise bike after an appalling experience at a gym, wanting to slim down for my yearly snow sports holiday. I purchased a Davina McCall Magnetic Bike, mostly because it was cheap, fold-able, and had really good reviews on the site I purchased it from. It's been well worth it.
However, I started to notice a 'klunking' in the pedalling. To me, it felt like I was cycling normally and then the pedals would spin faster for a moment, pedal normally again and then spin faster again, but it wasn't at every rotation of the pedals. I ignored it for a while but it became worse and worse and I recently decided to try and open up the bike to see if I could find out what the cause was.
The bike was cheap, but if I could repair it that'd be much cheaper than replacing it, especially as no other bike caught my attention in my latest search, missing the handy fold-able feature that the Davina Bike had.
Taking it apart was relatively easy, wherever there was a screw, I unscrewed, until I was able to wriggle the blue face-plate out.
There are two belts inside the bike. If you face the bike, so the handles are closest to you and the seat further away, the belt connecting two wheels on the left appears to be for the little computer to detect your progress. The belt connecting two wheels on the right appears to link to the magnetic resistance.
The left of these belts was clearly frayed but I couldn't tell if that was the problem. I slowly pedalled with my hands, watching the belt to see what happened to it when the pedals slipped and span fast again. At first I couldn't tell what was happening but, unable to see anything else that looked like it might be a problem, I continued pedalling and watching.
I eventually called in my fiancé and, while we don't agree on what the problem is, we do agree that replacing this belt was probably the way to go.
The right-hand belt was undamaged, so we could ready that it was a "ACRON S-Teknic 230 J" belt. Unfortunately a search online wasn't very helpful and the manual for the bike only listed the part very usefully as "57 Belt".
While we couldn't find a "ACRON S-Teknic 230 J" belt online I was able to start piecing information together about what this part actually was. "ACRON" was the manufacture, which was good to know because it meant if I could work out what the part was I could look for makes from other manufactures. I don't know what "S-Teknic" is, probably just some branding but the 230 J is interesting, you need to know a few other things too:
These belts are knowing as "Poly V" belts.
Poly: Just means many, Greek in origin I think.
V: This describes the shape of the belt, if you look at the underside you'll see this sort of shape vvv, the V is the shape, the poly bit just indicates that there's more than one. (Two vv s is still a Poly V belt, not a Poly W belt).
230: The first two digits is the length in full inches of the belt. The number always has a zero on the end for some reason, I think it's an indicator of how much of a full inch extra there is but I haven't seen any belt listings with any number other than zero online. (The left hand belt actually snapped while we were testing the problem so, while we could read 230 on the non-damaged belt, we were able to measure properly the one that needed replacing anyway - 240).
J: This is an indicator of the dimensions of each v, height, length and width, you can look up the specifics if you want but you don't need to, just know that it's a J.
3: I mentioned that the underside of the belt looks like three v s next to each other, this is what the 3 stands for, the number of vs.
Phew! So, I finally knew what I was after and my fiancé and I did a small tour of local washing machine, vacuum, lawn mower and motor parts suppliers to see if they had any. No luck, and finding somewhere that clearly sold Poly V 240 J 3 belts online wasn't easy either as at that time I was still piecing together information about what I needed.
There were a lot of sites that only catered for mass industrial orders and the site I actually approached informed me they wouldn't deliver to the UK. (If anyone's interested the original site was http://www.motionindustries.com).
When I contacted this company though, they gave me an email contact for the website at the top of this post. Their own website doesn't list the parts, but a friendly and helpful man responded to my online enquiry and after a quick phone call, arranged the order of a replacement Poly V 240 J 3 belt. There was a minimum order value though, so I also ordered the other belt, Poly V 230 J 3, and a Poly V 250 J 3. Just in case I'd measured wrong.
They're due for delivery this week and I'm looking forward to getting the bike fixed up and running again for 1/10th of the price it would have been to replace.
As a quick internet search wasn't all I needed, I thought I'd post about my exercise bike fixing adventure in case anyone else found it useful and save them the long weekend it took me to figure all this out - not that long really. :P
Poly V 230 J 3
This is what the right, Poly V 230 J 3, belt looks like. The belt should fit in the teeth on the wheels in these positions.
Poly V 240 J 3
This is the left, Poly V 240 J 3. Again, it should fit in the teeth on the wheels in these positions.
Magnets
Here's a picture of what the magnets look like. We moved mine while working on the belts, and you can see that the spring has been over stretched, to get the original level 4 resistance I now have to use level 5. This spring is used to increase or decrease the effect the magnets have on the resistance. If you're still having trouble, see if there is something you can do to the positioning of the magnets.
This has been very helpful as i have experienced the same problem as you and i have found it difficult to find a replacement. What was the correct size once you received your order?
ReplyDeleteI'd forgotten all about this post, I'm glad it's been of use :)
DeleteWhen they arrived, it WAS Poly V 240 J 3 for the left.
Thank you, was the belt expensive? and once replaced is the bike running as new again?
DeleteIt was £29.68 for all three belts, including delivery. There was a tiny bit of the clunking motion to start off with, but I think that was just as the belts worked their way securely into position. I have no trouble with it now, it's nice and smooth and just like new again.
DeleteThank you Lucy, you have been most helpful. So glad i found this blog. :)
DeleteHi Lucy. Sorry to be a pain, but how on earth did you get the pedal off to get to the belt? I have the belt arriving tomorrow but we can't get the bloomin pedal to come off, tried all sorts and even got a friend to have a go, still no luck. Are they threaded or just need walloping off....They are driving us nuts :)
DeleteHi Elaine, I actually thought it might be just my bike, but my fiancé and I struggled getting the pedals off too. In the end we've actually cut into the white casing to get the belt around. I don't really care about the Davina branding so don't mind the tear, I still keep the casing on and use duct tape to fit the cut but I'll admit it's not an ideal solution.
DeleteHi Lucy Maria and Elaine,
ReplyDeleteI have been read your posts above, is there any chance you can help me please?? My 240J belt has snapped too, so my husband is going to help me later get the white casing is off and I have the belt here ready to replace but I can't still can't see how on earth to get the belt on, I'm no genius but this is like a puzzle of torture....
Carrie
Hi Carrie,
Deleteif only it were easy. I was a bit miffed when I couldn't find ANYTHING about fixes online, usually the first search comes up with what I'm after. Anyway, I've pulled my bike apart again especially to help :)
1. Undo the screws in the base, there are two on the left side, at the top and the bottom and five on the right side, all around the edge. This will loosen the casing enough so that you can...
2. Wriggle the blue face plate free and get it out of the way.
3. Remove the foot bar at the front - the screws holding it on will make it difficult to remove the white casing. I used a 1/2 spanner as I found the casing was too close to the bolts to use a sprocket.
This is where it becomes more memory, but when my fiancé gets home I'll see if he can help with any more of the details:
4. Cut into the while casing. We appear to have used a junior hack saw to start the cut, at about the middle-front and torn it down to the hole where the pedal sits. (On one side it looks like we started sawing all the way but the cut is a bit messy and it looks like we gave up in favour of tearing the rest of the way - a much cleaner cut anyway).
5. Wriggle the casing free. You'll have to be quite tough and our bike has a tear the opposite side of the one we made to the pedal hole. Don't forget you can turn the pedals into a more helpful position.
6. You should now have access to a combination of screws and bolts that hold in the cycling mechanics. Undo these, this should allow you to...
7. Lift the unit from the white frame but I WOULD NOT ADVISE lifting it any further than you have to to get the belt on. There's a spring near the front that seems to have something to do with the magnetic tension - I think we stretched it accidentally while fixing and the magnetic settings all decrease. My original level 4 cycle now needs level 5 for the same resistance.
You should be able to wriggle the belt around the pedal, between the white metal frame and onto it's track. Then it's just a case of doing everything back up in reverse.
Phew! I hope that helps.
Hi again Carrie,
Deletejust thought I'd update having spoken to my fiancé:
The unit I mentioned in step 7 is actually two, one that you can pull away down and to the back, the other which can be pulled away up and to the front. He said this bit was particularly fiddly, but you should be able to pull the down/back element out, loop the belt on, place it back on the frame, then pull out the up/front element, and loop the belt around that part too.
Pedals do come off I have so far removed the RH pedal. Note that the left hand pedal will have a left hand thread to avoid unwinding when cycling.
DeleteThanks Martin, good to know it can be done :)
DeleteI don't think I would ever have found the required belt without this page - thank you so much. I have the Ultrasport F-Bike, which I think is the same under the branding. The belt looks right and is the correct length.
DeleteThe peddles are easily removed with a crank puller, I bought the Draper 31039 Bicycle Crank Puller from Amazon for £6.94. Got both pedals off in seconds (search youtube for crank puller for method).
Thanks again.
belts are available from http://simplybearings.co.uk just type inthe 3 digit and 1 letter code then how many ribs required and they will supply.
ReplyDeleteAll,
ReplyDeleteThanks very much for this information - I have just ordered the belts from an alternative supplier and have managed to order them for £6.47 including postage - http://www.bearingshopuk.co.uk part numbers below:
PV584JR Poly V Belt (Sleeve)Number of Ribs: 3 Rib
PV610JR Poly V Belt (Sleeve)Number of Ribs: 3 Rib
I also managed to get the covers off without cutting by removing the pedals first - but I was not able to undo the cranks so I hand to force them over the crack to get them off but did do without breaking them.
Nice one, thanks Anonymous :)
DeleteHave you got an instruction manual that you could email to me or know where i could get one from...
ReplyDeleteThank you
I'm not aware of there being a manual, although I do remember going through a parts list that came with the bike. Do you want me to see if I find it for you?
DeleteMy computer will not work do you have any suggestions? I have tried new batteries.
ReplyDeleteNone sorry, Sheon. Maybe try taking the back off and checking all the wire connections?
Deletewe had the same problem, and all we did was like warm the batteries up a bit (even tho they were new) and then the computer worked again..
DeleteI purchased the exercise bike second hand and it came without s user guide. Anyone know where I can obtain one if these as I just want to know how to operate the computer set the timer etc if possible. Thanks :)
ReplyDeleteHi Caz,
Deleteafter a quick search I can't find my documents but I'll have another look later.
As far at the computer goes, when you put batteries in it will activate. If you don't cycle for 5mins it will shut off, but as soon as you start peddling it'll activate again, all stats at zero. While it's on the computer will cycle through the different numeric displays, by pressing the grey button you can cycle through which number to stick to. You can't set a timer, but one of the displays will show you the time you've been cycling for.
To get the display to cycle through again just press the grey button again until it's on the cycle display.
I hope that helps, if I can find the documents I'll scan them in and put them up somewhere.
Hi anyone know how to get a new console as I bought one second hand and the console has broken so dont have any instruction manual with details or part number? Any help greatly appreciated. Manyn thanks
ReplyDeleteHi bruceyfamily,
Deletesorry for the delay. I've fished out my manual:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5pBrePbUv4fZzBoWUFYYWQ5TUE/view?usp=sharing
There is a part list, but I don't remember it being very helpful in terms of re-order codes. I'm not quite sure where you'd order the computer from either. I imagine it could be quite specific to the model of bike, but maybe you could get a computer somewhere else and just sync it up with the magnets to record a cycle?
Sorry I can't be more helpful :(
hi, can anyone post the details of the computer programme settings as have no idea how they work. I bought this bike second hand without instructions, thanks
ReplyDeleteNorrie
Hi Norrie,
DeleteI found them! I lost my instructions when we moved house, but I came across them in a box recently:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5pBrePbUv4fZzBoWUFYYWQ5TUE/view?usp=sharing
This is the only documentation I received when I bought the bike brand new. I don't remember them being very useful, but there are a couple of pages dedicated the the computer, maybe they'll help.
Sorry for the delay :(
The left belt as slipped off fly wheel but cant get it back on.. can someone take a picture of how its supposed to look please.
ReplyDeleteim not sure if its supposed to go around the magnetic bit in the middle because when jysr around the track theres no tension :(
Help!!!
Hi,
DeleteI'm not sure "better late than never" applies, but...
This is what the right, Poly V 230 J 3, belt looks like. The belt should fit in the teeth on the wheels in these positions.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5pBrePbUv4fZDJyenladjVyUjA/view?usp=sharing
This is the left, Poly V 240 J 3. Again, it should fit in the teeth on the wheels in these positions.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5pBrePbUv4fRjE0dVpuSEt5MVU/view?usp=sharing
Finally, here's a picture of what the magnets look like. We moved mine while working on the belts, and you can see that the spring has been over stretched, to get the original level 4 resistance I now have to use level 5. This spring is used to increase or decrease the effect the magnets have on the resistance. If you're still having trouble, see if there is something you can do to the positioning of the magnets.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5pBrePbUv4fVkI2RHNNRTByZG8/view?usp=sharing
I know this is a long shot because this blog is nearly a year old but I've got the exact same problem in that the 240 J belt which I have replaced on the left of the bike as you look at it has no tension and just keeps slipping. I've put in all back in place but haven't replaced all the screws yet because there is not tension and the right wheel doesn't turn when I turn the pedals. Don't know what I've done wrong because I've followed all the above instructions? It's very frustrating. Can anyone help?
DeleteI have exactly the same problem.
Deletethe left belt seems too long and you have to tighten it considerably to get any tension with the result that the wheel sticks out too much at the back and won't allow the casing to be put back in place.
Even the 230J belt is too long
This assumes the bearing has been put back in the correct position. Based on the pictures in this blog, it has but it seems to serve no purpose.
Should the belt rub against it?
I'm not sure what might have happened. I've seen what looks like an identical bike rebranded online, but it's possible the insides have changed too. Each belt will likely have a code on it that will help you identify the replacement part, I've added some pictures to the original post. If that doesn't work you could always try measuring the old belt to work it out.
DeleteJust replaced the left-hand belt (240J3) for the second time in fifteen months! Last time I ordered one of each, but the right-hand one (230J3) is still the original...
ReplyDeleteAnyway, this time I have ordered two of the 240J3 (ready for next time!); both times I have got them from www.beltingonline.com, approx £10.70 for two including P&P. Just enter Davina exercise bike in the search box and they will come up.
Thanks, much cheaper than replacing the whole bike :)
DeleteI can`t find any videos online on how to change the Poly V 240 J 3. Anyone has one ?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi, We have now got an on-line catalogue to help locate the belts https://shop.eriks.co.uk also we have the belt drive designer to help with finding the right belt solution. http://selectors.fptgroup.com/ hope these tools help.
ReplyDeleteI know cars use similar grooved belts to drive alternators and so on. If you know the number of ribs (R) or peaks and the length in millimeters (L) , you could try searching for RpkL. Example - a 4 rib 825mm long belt would be 4PK825. Not tried one myself so this is an idea, not guaranteed, but something I'll try if our bikes belts fray.
ReplyDeleteIf you are looking for more information about flat rate locksmith Las Vegas check that right away. Recumbent Exercise Bike Reviews
ReplyDeleteHas anyone had an issue with the display not functioning? I haven't used the bike for over 4 years but now need to but with the heart rate monitor working.
ReplyDeletePedals are left and right hand thread.
ReplyDeleteThe right-hand pedal has a right hand thread and unscrews as normal.
The left hand pedal has a left hand thread.
The pedal arms are handed and marked L and R - if not, mark them.
They are an interference fit onto the square ends of the spindle.
A standard bike Crank Removal Tool fits and will remove them (pull them off - it's not easy mind, they are a tight fit. Don't cross-thread the tool)
I'm on the hunt for replacement bearings for one of the pedals. . . . They are 20mm OD but without removing them from the pedal, I don't know the other dimensions.
I might just find another set of pedals somewhere.
In the meantime, I shall pedal them into the ground . . .
My regards and thanks for starting this column.
Very informative - just need to read it all . . . .
Does anyone know how to change km to m please?
ReplyDeleteI am jovial you take pride in what you write. It makes you stand way out from many other writers that can not push high-quality content like you. best bell helmet
ReplyDeleteMany thanks. A useful blog. I managed to replace the longer belt (approx. £10 with postage). I needed to enlarge the central shaft hole in the plastic cover (by ripping out a bit with pliers) so I could pull the cover down towards the pedal. I could then undo all the screws and nuts on that side (left side viewed from the front) to work in the new belt (via the hole in the plastic cover etc. I also had to loosen a nut on the right side and had to take the other belt off the the spindles to allow the replacement belt to fit on before putting back the shorter other belt. Not easy to do but for £10 and a few frustrating curses it's done.
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Hi, I would like some advice about where to buy a replacement charger (lost in house move) for the folding bike (orange wheels, quite old). Can you help? Needed urgently forsome rehab.
ReplyDeleteThanks